![]() There is also a very small indicator light at the top to help you locate the switches in the dark if you purchase the snap-in light module. The top two switches are single pole for controlling one light each, and the lower switch can actually be installed as either a 3-way switch or another single pole (S/P). You're not going to find the Pro devices at Home Depot, but you should be able to find them on Amazon.Control three lights from stacked 3 switches that are perfect for limited electrical wall boxes. This may require some alterations to the existing switches, but with some careful planning and execution it's very possible (I have many of these applications in my place).Check out the Caseta Brochure for the whole product lineup. But they also have a traveler wire (Blue) that can be connected to your conventional mechanical switches so you don't need to burry Picos in your multi switch rooms. These dimmers / switches all require the neutral wire. I prefer to use the Caseta Pro dimmers and switches (PD-10NXD, PD-5NE, PD-5WS). One room may use 3 devices (dimmer + 2 picos). Also, if you use picos your device count goes up fast. I would prefer not to have battery operated devices (picos) buried in my walls. You need to burry a Pico remote in the wall to cover the other switch locations. ![]() Lastly, do all switches work whether the original switch was for a single pole or a 3-way? Thanks :-) The basic / most popular Caseta dimmer, the PD-6WCL that you see at the Home Depot and Lowes does not have a neutral wire (white) and it cannot work with any three way switches. These dimmers will work better at very low and very high dimming levels, they will work more predictably with electronic loads, etc. This is a far more reliable and predictable way to go. When you use a dimmer that has a neutral wire, current flows between the hot (black) and the neutral (white) to keep the dimmer alive and powered. This is the current that the dimmer is trying to pass through the bulb, and it can sting. If you are dimming a single light, and you are changing the bulb, you can get a shock through the socket even though the light is off.If you are dimming a single light and the bulb fails or dies, the dimmer will go offline.If you are connecting a non-neutral dimmer to an electronic load, like and LED light or an Electronic Low Voltage transformer, that small current can cause strange things to happen.Non neutral dimmers will usually only go up to 95% or so. If it did, there would be no voltage differential to run the dimmer circuits. So the dimmer can flow a very small current through that filament without causing it to emit light.Not needing that white wire can be convenient, but flowing current through the load to power the dimmer is not ideal and does bring drawbacks, including: The light bulb is basically a thin piece of wire (filament). When you're using a basic incandescent light bulb, this is no problem. The current is very low (around 5 milliamps). When there is no white (neutral) wire, the dimmer must flow a small amount of current through the load (the light) so that it can keep itself powered up. This means they need to consume a little current to keep themselves alive. Second, why do some switches have white wires and others don't? The Caseta dimmers are advanced electronic devices that are constantly communicating with the Smart Bridge, listening for commands and sharing their own status.
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